NEWS LETTER

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Seasonal Skin-Savvy

While summer is great, it can be a relief to have the cooler temperatures roll in and dictate that you bundle up in a comfy sweater instead of bare it all in a swimsuit. But out of sight is not out of mind when it comes to your skin. Without proper moisturizing and exfoliating, the cold air and low humidity quickly can turn you into a dry, scaly version of your skin-so-soft summer self.

Tanners especially are concerned with the level of moisture in their skin year-round; however, they must be even more attentive to this during winter. Chilly conditions can cause the skin’s level of moisture to drop below 10 percent, at which point the skin becomes rough and begins to chap.

Fortunately, the solution for—and prevention of—dry skin is simple: implement a skincare regime that focuses on moisturizing and exfoliating.

Step 1: Soak Up The Moisture

Moisturizers do just what their name implies—add moisture to the skin to keep it soft and supple. These products are absorbed into the epidermis (the topmost layers of the outer skin) and cannot penetrate into the dermis or muscle. Instead, the purpose of a moisturizer is to protect the lower layers of the skin by forming a seal on the outer layers. You should use moisturizers daily and apply them to the skin while it is still damp. This ensures that your skin properly absorbs the moisture.

Many popular moisturizing products contain vitamins, minerals, antioxidants and other nutrients to keep skin looking its best. Of those, vitamins A, C, D and E, as well as copper, alpha-lipoic acid and hyaluronic acid are top performers in the world of moisturizer ingredients.

Vitamin A is necessary for the maintenance and repair of skin tissue; low levels of the vitamin can exacerbate a dry, flaky complexion.

Vitamin C is supposed to act as a preservative, and its antioxidant power is particularly important in reference to reducing wrinkles and improving skin texture by protecting the skin against free radicals, which break down collagen and elastin (the fibers that support skin structure).

Vitamin D is believed to have certain skin-healing and UV-blocking properties.

Vitamin E is used primarily as an antioxidant and, much like vitamin C, helps to reduce DNA damage within skin cells by protecting cell membranes and membrane-associated enzymes against free radicals.

Copper helps to develop elastin, which strengthens skin structure, elasticity ad thickness. Copper-rich creams demonstrate rapid improvements in skin roughness, clarity, fine lines, wrinkling and overall photodamage.

Alpha-lipoic acid and hyaluronic acid both keep skin looking smoother and younger. In moisturizer form, alpha-lipoic acid helps neutralize skin cell damage caused by free radicals and helps other vitamins work more effectively to rebuild those skin cells. In a lotion or cream, hyaluronic acid—which plays a role in holding skin cells together—has the ability to hold water up to 1,000 times its weight, making it a great moisturizer.

Additionally, many skincare and cosmetic companies are adding sunscreens to their moisturizers. With consumer confidence and knowledge at an all-time high, minimizing the effects of uncontrolled exposure to UV rays is a major concern to the end user.

Step 2: Give Dry Skin The Brush-Off

Exfoliation is the removal of dead cells from the epidermis to uncover smoother, fresher-looking skin. Think of it as your magic bullet for more beautiful skin—it’s easy to implement into your daily routine and can have big results by making skin look instantly radiant.

Ultimately, the key to exfoliating is to figure out what products and treatments work best for your skin, and whether you need mild or intense exfoliation.

Loofahs & Scrubs

Two of the easiest exfoliation mediums are loofahs and granular scrubs. Both can be used in the shower; simply massage with light pressure to remove dead cells. Coarser scrubs and loofahs are fine for the body as long as skin is not dry, irritated or cracked. For the face, however, the gentler the loofah or scrub, the better. (Hint: Try a soft washcloth or a Buf-Puf™.) Exfoliating manually is safe once a day or a couple of times a week, but scrub only for about a minute and apply light pressure—and of course, follow up with a good moisturizer.

Chemical Exfoliants

Another option comes in the form of chemical exfoliants, or acids, which dissolve the glue-like bonds that stick dead cells to the skin's surface. Using an acid at night in conjunction with a manual exfoliator in the morning sweeps away the loosened cells faster than either method alone. Also, acids exfoliate more deeply than do scrubs, although still superficially, and because the application is uniform—there's no scrubbing involved—the results are more predictable. (Hint: If your skin is oily, use a beta hydroxy acid—BHA—because the hydrating effects of alpha hydroxy acids—AHAs—can make oily skin look shiny.) It’s also a good idea to start with a low-strength formula; if your skin tolerates it well, after two weeks you can begin alternating every other day with the next strongest formula.

Peels

Peels, whether at-home or professionally-applied, exfoliate in the same way as AHA and BHA lotions, but because they're more potent, they yield slightly more dramatic and quicker results.

At-home versions are "re-texturizing" masks or cloth pads containing AHAs and/or BHAs in concentrations of 8 percent to 15 percent glycolic acid, 5 percent to 12 percent lactic acid and 2 percent salicylic acid. (Warning: The stronger the peel formula, the greater the potential for irritation. If you apply too much product, use a peel too often or use it in conjunction with other strong exfoliating agents, skin could peel too deeply, leaving you red for days. Light tingling or burning is common, but it shouldn't last longer than a few minutes and redness should fade within an hour or so.)

Professional versions, on the other hand, come in three levels—light, medium and deep—that consist of one acid or a combination of acids in high concentrations, and are typically performed on the face, chest or hands. In all professional applications, the acids "burn" the skin to trigger a repair response; however, while light peels affect only the epidermis and are safe to get every six weeks, the results from just one medium or deep peel can last from months to years. So if improving skin texture is your only goal, medium and deep peels aren't for you. Skin is red for up to three weeks, and usually a surface crust forms. This falls off after a week, and the redness turns to pink, which can last one to three months. Deep peels may require local anesthesia or pain medication.

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion uses aluminum oxide crystals to “sandblast” the top layer of the skin, smoothing the texture of skin and enhancing its glow.

At-home versions commonly come in the form of a paste or scrub and are used in conjunction with a battery-operated handpiece that rotates or vibrates a sponge or soft brush. (Warning: The coarseness of the pastes and scrubs plus added friction from the attachment equals increased potential for temporarily damaging the skin, leaving it red and irritated and possibly scarring darker skin tones. Never use these products more than once a week.)

Professional versions of microdermabrasion feature a wand that shoots aluminum oxide crystals or purified salt onto the skin, then immediately vacuums it up. (Warning: Microdermabrasion can irritate sensitive skin; avoid it if you have rosacea or a tendency toward redness. The vacuuming action in frequent treatments also can lead to broken blood vessels, though if your skin can tolerate it, monthly treatments are considered safe.)

Taking Care Of Skin Business

Every tanner knows that the secret to getting a fabulous golden glow lies in cultivating a healthy complexion—because healthy skin tans best. Unfortunately, this can be difficult during the harsh conditions of winter.

The key is to determine a seasonally-appropriate regimen for your skin. When doing this, be sure to look at your skin type—which can be dry, oily or combination—and then examine the effect of your workout habits, diet, stress level and environment on your skin. By assessing these factors, you can tailor your moisturizing and exfoliating habits to the time of year and to your lifestyle.

Also, take note of these other moisture-stealing culprits to avoid wintertime (and anytime) skin woes:

Drink at least eight 16-ounce glasses—or 1 gallon—of water daily to keep your skin the picture of perfection. Though it’s not as hot outside, and you don’t necessarily need the water to replenish lost fluids from sweating, water is the key to rehydrating tired and stressed-out skin. (Bonus: It also will clear up facial blemishes and help shed unwanted pounds.)

Even though the weather is frightful and hot shower or bath seems so delightful, limit yourself to 15 minutes of bathing. Ironically, soaking for long periods of time dehydrates skin because it has a tendency to wash away sebum (a substance that the body secretes onto the skin to prevent moisture or water loss from the underlying tissues).

Don’t forget to moisturize before, during and after a tanning session, and whenever skin feels dry. (Bonus: Not only will this hydrate your skin, but it also will improve the development and extend the life of your tan.)

Your skin is the largest organ of your body—take care of it.